If you are new to sewing, it is best you take a look at my blogpost on how to construct a simple basic sleeve and a professional sleeve.
In this blog post, I will be talking about how to draft a two-piece sleeve for your suit.
A two-piece sleeve is normally best for skirt suits or trousers suits .
It normally has two sections, the front section and the underarm section of the sleeves. That is why it is called a two-piece sleeve. If you take a look at your normal suit sleeve, you will find a cut at the back end of the sleeve.
That is the joining of the front end of the sleeve and the underarm part of the sleeve.
Without any waste of time, lets go ahead and start drafting our two-piece sleeve.
ITEMS NEEDED FOR THE TWO PIECS SLEEVE
Find below the items needed to construct your two piece sleeve
HOW TO GET THE EYE OF THE SLEEVE
The very first thing we need in making our two-piece sleeve is to get the “EYE OF THE SLEEVE. This we are going to trace from the professional sleeve pattern block. As I said earlier, you need first to create a proffesional sleeve block .
From this professional sleeve block, you trace out the sleeve eye section. as shown below
CREATING THE UNDER ARM PART OF THE TWO PIECE SLEEVE
After you have traced out the eye of the sleeve using the tracing wheel.You now have another pattern paper with just the eye of the sleeve.
Please remember to label the back and front parts of the sleeve.
This is what we are going to use to create the underarm part of the two-piece sleeves. you can watch the full process of how to draft a two-piece sleeve in the YouTube video below
The first thing to do is to measure your wrist to elbow measurement.My wrist to elbow measurement is 27 cm. You will mark this on the center line of the sleeve eye.Then draw a vertical line joining the two sleeve lines.
At the wrist part of the sleeve, measure 2 cm or 3 quarters of an inch from the center line of the sleeve towards the front part of the sleeve eye.
Draw a straight line from the elbow section to meet the 2 cm point measurement.
SHAPING THE UNDERARM PART OF THE 2 PIECE SLEEVE.
From the back line of the sleeve, at the wrist end, measure inwards 5.7 cm, or 2 and a quarter inches. From front line of sleeve, measure outwards 5.7 cm again. Draw curved lines from the elbow to meet these measurements. Check the picture illustration below.
Now that we are done with that, we are going to establish the seam line for the inner sleeve part. To do that, you will take in 3 cm on both sides of the sleeves. From the wrist up to the head of the sleeves.
It is on this line that you will cut the inner sleeve.
Here is how to cut out the underpart of the sleeve.
Place a piece of fresh pattern paper under the sleeve pattern and trace out the inner sleeve on the seam lines.
CONSTRUCTING THE FRONT PART OF THE TWO PIECE SLEEVES
Constructing the front part of the sleeve is better watched.
Explaining it with words might be more confusing. To really follow along, please watch the video HERE.
If you followed the video illustration very well,this is what your two piece sleeve should look like at the end of the day
CONCLUSION
Thank you for reading to the end.here is a pattern-drafting book for you
That is my take on constructing your two-piece sleeves. I hope you will create time to try and construct your very own two-piece sleeve. If you have any questions or challenges,do not hesitate to ask or drop your comments.
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