If you are new to sewing,it is best you take a look at my blogpost on how to construct a simple basic sleeve and a professional sleeve.
In this blog post I will be talking about how to draft a two piece sleeve for your suit.
A two piece sleeve is normally best for skirt suits or trouser suits .
It normally has two sections , the front section and the underarm section of the sleeves. That is why it is called a two piece sleeve.If you take a look at your normal siut,you will find a cut at the back end of the sleeve.
That is the joining of the front end of the sleeve and the under arem part of sleeve.
Without any waste of time,lets go ahead and start drafting our two piece sleeve.
ITEMS NEEDED FOR THE TWO PIECS SLEEVE
Find below theitems needed to construct your two piece sleeve
HOW TO GET THE EYE OF THE SLEEVE
The very first thing we need in making our two piece sleeve is to get the “EYE OF THE SLEEVE”This we are going to trace from the proffesional sleeve pattern block .As I said earlier,you need first to create a proffesional sleeve block .
From this proffessional sleeve block,you trace out the sleeve eye section.as shown below
CREATING THE UNDER ARM PART OF THE TWO PIECE SLEEVE
After you have traced out the eye of the sleeve using the tracing wheel.You now have another pattern paper with just the eye of the sleeve.
Please remember to label the back and front part of sleeve eye.
This is what we are going to use to create the under arm part of the two piece sleeve.you can watch the full process in the youtube video below
The first thing to do is to measure your wrist to elbow measurement.My wrist to elbow measurement is 27cm.You will mark this on the center line of the sleeve eye.Then draw a vertical line joining the two sleeve lines.
At the wrist part of the sleeve,measure 2cm or 3 quarters of an inch from the center line of the sleeve towards the front part of sleeve eye.
draw a straight line from the elbow section to meet the 2cm point measurement.
SHAPING THE UNDER ARM PART OF THE 2 PIECE SLEEVE.
From the back line of sleeve, at the wrist end,measure inwards 5.7cm or 2 and a quater inches.From front line of sleeve ,measure outwards 5.7cm again.Draw curved lines from the elbow to meet theses measurements.Check the picture illustration below.
Now that we are done with that we are going to establish the seam line for the inner sleeve part.To do that you will take in 3cm on both sides of the sleeves.From the wrist up to the head of the sleeves.
It is on this line that you will cut the inner sleeve.
Here is how to cut out the under part of the sleeve.
Place a fresh pattern paper under the the sleeve pattern and trace out the inner sleeve on the seam lines.
CONSTRUCTING THE FRONT PART OF THE TWO PIECE SLEEVES
Constructing the front part of the sleeve is better watched.
Explaining it with words might be more confusing. To really follow along,please watch the video HERE.
If you followed the video illustration very well,this is what your two piece sleeve should look like at the end of the day
CONCLUSION
That is my take on constructing your two piece sleeve.I hope you will create time to try and construct your very own two piece sleeve.If you have any questions or challenges,do not hesitate to ask or drop your comments.
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