I have used a lot of Patterns to date.
When I started with my first pattern, everything looked very confusing to me.
If you have bought your machine, and created your sewing room, you are now ready to buy some patterns.
Before you do that,here are some tips on choosing the right pattern size.
Before I get into the tips,there are important factors to note .
- Sewing patterns are not true to size.
- The fact that you are size 14 does not mean that size 14 patterns will fit you perfectly.
- Ready to wear sizes are not the same as pattern sizes.
- Example, you wear a size 12 ready made DRESS.
- Buying a size 12 pattern size to sew might not give you the fitting you need. Store dress sizes and commercial pattern sizes are different. A store size 12 may be pattern size 14.
- Most pattern companies use the same body measurements .
- For example, if you are a size 14 with Burda, you will be a size 14 with Vogue.
Now that those points are settled, let’s dive into the tips.
1. PROPER BODY MEASUREMENT FOR YOUR PATTERN SIZE
THE main measurements you will need when buying a pattern are the bust and hips measurements .
You can check out this post on how to take proper body measurements. Or better still watch the video here.
Use the hip measurements when buying a skirt pattern. And the burst for a top. Or both measurements for a garment.
DOWNLOAD YOUR FREE MEASUREMENT CHART HERE
2.PURCHASING PATTERN SIZE FOR A CHILD
Pattern sizing for children is different from that of adults. Children’s sizing is according to the different stages of a child’s growth.
The sizing normally starts from 2 years and ends at 6 years.
Boys and girls sizing is between ages 7 and 10.That’s because the growth remains virtually the same for boys and girls during this period.Please bare in mind that this is just a general guide .Measurements needed to purchase patterns for children include
- Brest or chest
- Waist
- Hips
- Center back or neck to waist
- Height.
After carrying out the child’s measurement, write it on the free measurement chart .
it’s time for the next tip.
CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD CHILDRENS MEASUREMENT CHART
3.COMPARE NORMAL MEASUREMENT AND PATTERN MEASUREMENT
As a general rule, if a child’s measurement is in between two sizes, it is better to choose the larger size and then adjust to fit.
There are a lot of blog post and you tube videos on how to adjust a pattern to your size. Same goes for the adult.
I am yet to find a pattern that fits my waist .
Once I get a pattern size that fits my burst or hips, I normally adjust it to fit my waist. When you compare your measurements and the pattern measurements, choose the size closest to your measurements. Bare in mind that pattern companies normally include ease into their designs.
This is normally referred to as the wearing ease and design ease. This is the difference between your body measurements and the finished DRESS measurement.
4.CHOOSE PATTERN SIZE ACCORDING TO YOUR HIGH BURST OR HIP MEASUREMENTS .
As I have already mentioned above,I choose my pattern size for skirts according to my hip size.I then adjust the pattern to fit my waist size.
This always gives me a better fitting.
If you want to buy a pattern size for a blouse or a top, it is better to use your higher burst measurements. For example of your high burst measurement is 34 inches, choose a pattern size with a “34”inches burst measurement. See the example below.
The advantage is that you will have a perfect fit on your shoulder and neck region .All you have to do is a full burst adjustment.
To fit your full burst size.
5.CHECK THE FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT.
This measurements should correspond to your body measurements plus wearing and style ease.
Choose patterns that will give between 2 -3inchs of ease. For example say you have a burst measurement of 38″.Choose a pattern size that has 40″ or 41″burst measurements as the finished garment measurements.
6.TAKE THE MEASUREMENT OF A FITTED TOP OR SKIRT
It is advisable to take the burst or hips measurements of the top or skirt that fits you well.You will need this measurements to compare with the finished
Garment measurement. Every pattern has a finished garment measurement.This is the total of your body measurements +Design ease+wearing ease.Example, the burst measurements of your fitted blouse is 40″,.Then choose a pattern size with
Finished garment burst measurements of 40″.
This will ensure that when you use the pattern to sew, the fitting will be perfect.
7.BUY A MULTIPLE SIZED PATTERN
A multiple sized pattern in one envelope solves a lot of problems. This type of pattern gives you flexibility to choose your size separately for your
Burst
waist
And Hips.
If you are like me with different sizes at different points, multi sized patterns is a God sent. This is the most easy and economical way to alter your pattern .It saves you lots of time you would use to do a lot of alterations.
If you have a size 12 burst ,size 16 waist, and size 20 hips You can use a multi sized chart to create a pattern size to fit your shape.
This is clearly illustrated in the diagram below.
Looking at the diagram you can see how easy it is to draw your pattern size. This is also a useful tip when buying pattern sizes for children.
This is because you can use the larger sizes as the children grow older.
8.GET A MULTI SIZE PARTTERN MAKING SYSTEM
The lutterloh pattern making system is a system that I have used for years.
Its easy to use and can be used to create multiple sizes. The incredible thing about this is that you need just two measurements to create any pattern size. With the lutterloh pattern making system you need just YOUR BURST AND HIP MEASUREMENT:You can get full details about the lutterloh pattern making system HERE Or
YOU CAN GET YOUR LUTTERLOH PATTERN MAKING SYSTEM HERE
BONUS;WHY USE PATTERN SIZES.?
Commercial patterns make it easy to create cloths that fit perfectly. Using patterns has a lot of advantages.This is particular useful for you if you are a beginner. A store bought pattern size includes all that you need to sew your chosen style.
On the pattern envelope,you will find the kind and number of yards of fabric to buy.They also provide you with detailed guide on linings,interfacing,trimmings and fastening required.
Most importantly commercial patterns come in multiple sizes. This means that you can use different elements from these sizes to create a perfect fit. As shown by the example above.
CONCLUTION
Using commercial patterns as a beginner is the best way to go. This is because you will get to know sizing scales of different countries .
Apart from that you will know what size really fits your body shape. Those are my 8 tips on choosing the right pattern size.
What is your experience? Or do you have any other tip ?Dont hesitate to drop your comments below.